We were able to sleep in again on Sunday morning. Alexandre and Dominique were still sleeping when we went into "the big house" to have breakfast. Francoise was bustling about in the kitchen and asked if we'd like to take a walk with her after breakfast to the little convenience-type store in Chez Guillen. After all that we had eaten on Saturday, we surely felt we needed a walk. Apparently Francoise's mission was to pick up a tv guide for the rest of the week, so you see, in many ways, folks are much the same the world over.
We spoke with neighbours and their cats (well, we said Bon jour and left the more extensive remarks to Francoise). We saw many lovely homes and lots of gorgeous plants and trees, including many fruit and nut trees that were so loaded that they were dropping fruits and nuts like mad. There was a short cut to get back to the house but we couldn't take it because the chasseurs were out again that morning, hunters and their dogs stalking wild boar and who knows what else. In fact, as we took the long way home, we heard the pop-pop-pop of guns being fired not that far away.
The last bit of the route took us past a vinyard where the Pineau grapes were ready to be harvested. The grapes appeared golden in the early morning light. We well appreciated their slightly sweet taste in both the Pineau wine and the Cognac that was made from them (both of which flowed generously in the Taylor home).
When we got back to the house, Alexandra and Jerome invited us to come over for an aperitif before lunch. Francoise, Don, and I walked the short distance across the courtyard from the main house to the front door of Alexandra and Jerome's maison. They were pleased to give us a tour which showed off Alexandra's tidiness and Jerome's carpentry skills (he is a cabinetmaker by trade). On the outside, the Maison looks every bit of its hundred or so years but inside, it was not large but was modern and well laid-out. There was a very small area right inside the front door with a place for CDs and the stereo and a fairly steep staircase that led up to their small sitting area with a couch, a small table, and a TV. Adjacent to that was their bedroom area—all open plan. Downstairs there were closets and a shower room just off a small kitchen and dining area. Most of this was Jerome's handiwork. We sat at the table and had drinks and nibbles. Alexandra had made crab canapes for us. We enjoyed a glass of Cognac and Schweppes, the specialty of both houses (Cognac and Schweppes lemon mixed together, which was quite a nice drink).
Soon after our returning to the main house, Jerome came over to help with the preparation of our lunch, which appeared to be steaks being readied for the grill with all sorts of interesting things (herbs, garlic, olive oil, wine?) being rubbed into them. Alexandre was at the table cracking walnuts, so Don and I joined in to help him. Dominique was manning the grill outside. When the steaks began cooking, the smell was even more tantalizing. Even when I began eating my steak, I thought it was beef. It turned out to be duck breast! It was absolutely marvelous and was served with baked potatoes and green beans. Again, there were 7 of us at lunch, a meal that began with frois gras and ended with Dominique's strong coffee and a lemon ice-cream cake.
Before we left Scotland, Francoise had sent us brochures of the area and asked us to let her know if there was anything in particular we'd like to see during the weekend that wasn't covered by the group's prearranged tours. We had selected the town of Aubeterre south of Cognac, so that was on the agenda for the afternoon. Dominique had to work again that night and so elected to stay home. Alexandre stayed home to do his homework.
Unfortunately, the map Francoise was following was an old one that didn't show some of the newer highways, so we got lost several times trying to find Aubeterre. By the time we got there, we had travelled through much gorgeous countryside and many quaint hamlets and charming small villages. Alas, the light was beginning to dim by the time we arrived. Still, we got some pretty good photos and saw enough of Aubeterre for us and Francoise to know we'd all like to return and spend more time there.
It's official name is Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (Aubeterere on the Dronne River). Overlooking the lush Dronne valley, it is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. The village is built on a hill—actually much of it is built into a hill beneath the ancient castle. In fact, the monolithic Church of St. Jean is not only built into the chalk cliff but most of the church is subterranean. Unfortunately, it was closed by the time we arrived after 5 p.m. but according to the brochure, the church has never been altered since it was built in the 12th century.
We walked up the hill and explored a few of the twisting narrow wynds that went either up or down hill, depending on where you started. Very little of Aubeterre is on level ground except the square and the area at the top where the castle stood. There weren't many folks about but one could easily imagine the place completely overrun with tourists. Still, we look forward to going back.
We took some photos which you've seen, above. Here is a link for further information and a short but lovely virtual tour: http://aubeterresurdronne.free.fr/pages_anglais/principale_anglais.htm#
It was about 7 by the time we got back home, although we took a much more straightforward route home! Francoise immediately began making our supper. We had some leftover pate, followed by leftover crab and paella. For dessert, Francoise whipped up some crepes. Magnifique!
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